Puppy Training Guide

Puppy Training Guide

Puppy Training Guide update: February 7, 2024

I compiled puppy training techniques from the leading Puppy Training K9 Experts to give you a comprehensive guide. Puppy Training is not one-size-fits-all, and different breeds require more work. Many factors will determine your success, but stay consistent with a simple routine, and you will be just fine.

Expert Tips and Tricks for Puppy Training

We've assembled tips and tactics from expert dog trainers and behaviorists across the country to help new puppy owners manage the ups and downs of training. Whether you're dealing with separation anxiety, obstinate potty training, crate training, or leash manners, these experts can help you work through common puppy issues effectively and cheerfully.

Those first few nights are important if you are welcoming a new puppy.

Bringing a new puppy home is a wonderful time filled with excitement, fun, and various obstacles. Raising a happy, healthy, well-adjusted dog involves patience, consistency, and understanding of what to expect at each age and stage, from potty training mistakes to nipping from sharp puppy teeth. Sending a blanket or towel to the breeder to absorb the scents of the puppy's mother and siblings, then bringing it home to use in their crate to provide them with familiar scents to calm them down and reduce the anxiety of a new place, was one tip that made a great deal of sense.

While you may be eager to start puppy playtime, remember that everything is new and overwhelming for your pooch. After never leaving mom and siblings' sides, your pup likely feels unsure without their familiar siblings.

This new environment you call home is foreign to your anxious pup, it's more strange than charming. Sights, sounds, smells - it's a lot to take in. Therefore, be patient with them and show your puppy affection, particularly during the initial nights. Keep that crate close to your bed to ease the loneliness and give it extra security if needed. Your steady presence nearby reminds them they're not alone in this adventure.

And we know you can't wait for midnight puppy cuddles! But hold off on those slumber party snuggles early on. Welcoming little Fido under the covers from the start can set the stage for unwanted bed-hogging later. For now, be close, but not too close. There's time enough for snuggles...after housebreaking! Stay consistent those first few nights, and soon your pup will get the routine and happily snooze in their proper puppy bed.

Potty Training (House Breaking) Fundamentals

Accidents in the house are to be expected with a young puppy, but certified professional dog trainer Kathryn Primrose emphasizes the necessity of setting your pup up for success:

“Puppies under 16 weeks simply don't have full bladder control and need to be eliminated very frequently. Take your pup out every 30 minutes when they're active and crate time when you can't actively supervise. This helps establish positive habits. Lots of praise for going potty outside keeps it positive.”

Confinement to a crate or playpen with your unhousebroken dog is mandatory to prevent accidents and, ultimately, the start of an unwanted habit.

Other tips to reduce accidents, according to Michele Welton of Honest Advice about Dogs, include:

• Establish a routine and stick to a consistent feeding schedule of 3 to 4 times per day for puppies. Adult dogs twice per day. Last meal and water by 7 pm so their bodies have processed everything by bedtime. Puppies tend to need to be eliminated shortly after eating or drinking.

• Choose a potty cue like “gTakeo potty” and use it when your pup potties outside to reinforce the behavior.

• Clean all accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner to discourage repeat accidents.

Michele Welton of Honest Advice about Dogs is a 40-year veteran of dog training and recommends the following when accidents happen:

"If you SEE your pup eliminating in the wrong place, clap your hands (loudly) and exclaim, "AH-ah! No!" He might be startled enough to stop peeing or pooping (though that doesn't happen often). But if he does stop, quickly scoop him up and carry him to the proper potty area.

If your clap and verbal correction didn't stop him, oh well!

If you're just starting housebreaking with him, there's nothing you can do now but put him in his crate/pen, then clean up the mess and review your housebreaking schedule to see what went wrong. Was he loose in the house? If so, that fault is yours.

If your pup is at least 4 months old and has been working on housebreaking for several weeks, and if you're sure your pup understands what "NO" means, you can very quickly scoot him around to see the misdeed while you say, "NO." As long as the pup does understand what NO means, a mild reprimand can be effective.

But don't yell. Don't hit. And don't rub his nose in it!

Always remember that prevention of housebreaking accidents is far more effective than trying to correct after the fact. Each mishap within the home represents a regression in the process of housebreaking. Don't let a non-housebroken pup walk around loose indoors."

Crating for Calmness

Puppies need 18-20 hours of sleep per day for healthy development of their brains and bodies. Providing an enclosed, cozy spot your pup can retreat to when they get overstimulated or overtired can make a big difference, says dog trainer Sara White of K9 of Mine:

“Having a safe den-like area with stuffed Kongs and chews can help puppies learn to self-soothe and relax. Start slowly with very short, positive sessions in the crate to prevent anxiety.”

Making the crate comfortable with a blanket and toys can help it become a sanctuary rather than a punishment. Leaving the door open for your puppy to come and go at first can get them used to using it as their own personal space.

Biting and Nipping

If those razor puppy teeth are making your hands, ankles, and clothing worse for wear, Karen Overall MA, VMD, PhD and acclaimed veterinary behaviorist, recommends redirecting your pup to appropriate chew toys instead of skin and clothing:

“When pups are teething, having a variety of textures, from ropes to frozen wet towels, can help relieve discomfort. Food dispensing toys also let them expend energy in acceptable ways.”

Amy Cook CPDT-KA, trainer and author, suggests calmly ending all interaction by standing up and moving away when biting starts, and then resuming play with an appropriate toy once your pup calms down:

“This shows that mouthing prevents fun, while toys keep the games going. Pups catch on quickly with this type of feedback.”

Demand Barking Dos and Don'ts

When your once sweet puppy turns into a nagging bark monster demanding your attention, Jill Goldman Ed.D, CPDT-KA and certified dog behavior consultant, cautions against "supplying the demand" by giving them what they want:

“While it's tempting to throw a toy or give a treat when they bark, this rewards the behavior and sets up a pattern of using unwanted behavior to get what they want. Instead, wait for brief moments of quiet, then reward."

Barking should prompt a "Stop" or "No" response from you, followed by a corrective action. More on that later.

Leash Manners 101

Does your puppy start pulling as soon as the leash is attached? Don Sullivan, veteran dog trainer and author, has some fresh advice:

“Start leash training in a distraction-free environment first, not your neighborhood walks. Let your pup sniff and wander while keeping the leash loose most of the time, then change direction often, rewarding it for following you. This lays the foundation for respectful leash skills.”

Sarah Dobson CPDT-KA, certified professional dog trainer, also suggests:

“Work on attention skills at home, playing the ‘name game’ where puppies are rewarded for making eye contact when you say their name. This focused attention translates directly into better leash manners.”

Separation Solutions

The despairing cries when you head out the door can make separation anxiety seem inevitable. Still, Alex from Animal Behavior College, reassures that prevention is possible: “Start with very brief outings right from the start, tossing treats as you leave, then quietly letting yourself back in. Build slowly from there to teach pups they can handle alone time, and you always come back.”

Acclimating puppies slowly to time by themselves prevent panic from escalating. Steve Appelbaum CPDT-KA suggests:

“Provide stuffed chew toys only when departing, then remove them when you return. This teaches pups that separation = special goodies to enjoy.”

The First Year Will Fly By

While the early months can be demanding, the payoff for conscientious puppy-raising is an adult dog that's a pleasure to live with and train with for years to come. Setting your curious pup up for success with positive experiences in their formative early months pays dividends later for the entire lifetime of your canine companion.

Stay positive, be consistent, and ask for professional help if needed, and those adorable baby teeth will give way to a fantastic adult dog before you know it!

Detailed Training Tips from America VetDogs Blog

Puppy Training Guide from America’s VetDogs Blog:

(Please visit their blog for more info. and Donate): https://bit.ly/3NOfy8G

Five Cues to Teach Your Puppy

Bringing home a new puppy is an exciting time for many families! They’re adorable and cuddly, and they're usually too young to have picked up many undesirable habits. In the mix of all the playtime and snuggles, you’ll need to teach your puppy how to be a member of your household. This is where training comes in.

The thought of teaching a new puppy good house manners and obedience can be overwhelming if you've never had any formal training. Experts at America's VetDogs have compiled a basic puppy training guide to help everyday puppy parents learn some of the earliest skills our future service dog puppies learn. This guide is full of advice directly from our puppy trainers and has been adjusted as an appropriate source for non-working dogs.

Before you begin training your puppy, it's crucial to remember the importance of baby steps, consistency, and positive reinforcement. Be patient, and don’t hold training sessions that are longer than your puppy’s attention span. Any breaks in consistency will confuse your puppy, so keeping regularity in training is key. Lastly, never yell at or strike your dog. Training should be enjoyable and not cause stress and/or fear. Reward your puppy’s positive behaviors and be patient as they learn to stop the negative patterns.

Top Six most important skills/cues the pups should be learning early in their foundational training:
1. "Go Potty" and "Yes"

2. "No" or "Stop"
3. Name Recognition
4. Loose Leash Walking
5. "Come"
6. Crate training


“Go Potty” and "Yes"
Our puppy raisers use the verbal cue “go potty” to teach your puppy to relieve themselves when you ask them to relieve themselves. Remember, consistency is key, and be patient!

• To teach this verbal cue most effectively, pick a designated busy spot at your home and take your pup to the designated area every time early in their training. Using the same door to exit your home will also help establish a consistent, busy routine.

• Once your puppy is in their area, give the verbal cue “go potty” and allow them to sniff while walking around you.

• When your puppy starts to relieve themselves, say, “Go potty." Wait until they are done to praise them, but calmly tell them, "Yes." Your puppy may take several weeks to correlate relieving with the “go potty” verbal cue.

• Once your puppy seems to understand the verbal cue, start saying “Go Potty” right before they start to relieve. As before, praise your pup once they are done.

• Once you have done this for several days and the connection seems to be understood, start saying the verbal cue as your pup indicates they are about to go potty but haven’t started yet.

• Then, start saying the verbal cue when you get to the area where they normally relieve themselves.

• If after three or four weeks they still are not getting the "Go Potty" and "Yes" routine, then introduce treats when they potty when and where you want them to go. Use treats as a plan "B" for any routine you try to instill. Remember that the treat will not mean as much if you are overfeeding them.

"No" or "Stop"

Yes, it's okay to teach your dog that "No" or "Stop" will be followed by a negative result. Speaking these words needs to be abrupt and slightly elevated in tone, followed immediately by negative consequences for the unwanted behavior. You must stay firm on this every time with a corrective action that makes your puppy stop the behavior. Never hit or spank your pet, but a firm, quick tug on their leash with two inches of slack about eight inches from their collar in a side motion should get their attention and correlate that uncomfortable feeling with your stern voice saying "STOP" or "NO". If the leash tugging is still not getting results, try a dog whistle or ultrasonic sound device that only dogs can hear with a quick blast. You can carry a small water bottle for unacceptable behavior, but some dogs love it. A useful corrective action at home is time out in their crate with the door closed and no toys, blankets, or treats for a half hour. Once they figure this one out, you should not have to take corrective action. A simple "No" or Stop" will do the trick.

Name Recognition
This one is basic: driving the connection between your puppy’s name and reinforcement by repeating your puppy’s name and following it with a treat each time. For consistency, practice this at least 10 times each day.

• Call your puppy’s name. When they look at you, praise them with a “Yes” and give them a treat.

• If your puppy doesn’t provide eye contact right away, you can make slight kissing noises or gently rub their head to get them to turn to you. Once they turn and make eye contact, immediately praise “yes” and give them a treat.

• Be patient. Do not punish your puppy in any way when they don’t respond. Repetition is key, and they will eventually learn if you persist.

Loose Leash walking
You can start introducing loose-leash walking when you get your puppy. A gentle leader leash or harness can help prevent pulling and provide a high rate of reinforcement to the pup to establish your expectations. The pup should walk by your side on a loose leash. There should not be tension or pressure on the dog's neck (if using a regular collar) or head (if using a gentle leader). The pup should be taught to alleviate the pressure if it's added through self-control and loose-leash walking exercises.

Please follow these guidelines when teaching loose-leash walking:
• Start in a low-distraction environment, like your home in a quiet room. Hold the leash in a comfortable position with your hand on the leash, in a position that keeps the pup close to you without tension on the leash. Do not hold the end of the leash at the loop. You should hold the leash close because it gives the pup a short range of movement. If you hold the end of the leash, the pup has several feet to move before it feels tension.

• Pre-load your hand with kibble. You’ll want to deliver the food quickly to provide a high rate of reinforcement for the pup's loose-leash walking.

• Take one step forward, and if the pup follows, say "yes" and reward the pup with a treat. The pup might get wiggly and out of position; just remember to reward at the left knee to maintain their memory of being rewarded there.

• Continue taking one step at a time and offering reinforcement.

• Once the pup has mastered walking one step at a time without lunging or adding tension on the leash, continue adding 1-3 steps at a time between reinforcements.

“Come”/Recall
Your puppy should always happily come directly to you when they are called, even with distractions.

On-leash & off-leash recall:
• Have a piece of kibble ready in your hand and start by calling your puppy while they are about half a leash length away from you.

• Start in a familiar environment with no distractions. Allow your puppy to wander, and when they are no longer paying attention, give the verbal cue ‘come’ once in a happy voice.

• If your puppy attempts to move toward you, start praising them to encourage them to continue moving toward you. If they don’t come immediately, gently reel the pup in with the leash. Once the pup starts paying attention to you, praise them!

• Walk several steps backward with your puppy following you to teach them to keep moving toward you. Stop walking and continue praising your puppy as they approach you. Hold the piece of kibble near their nose and draw them toward you. When they are close enough, take hold of their collar with your free hand as they get the kibble for reward.

• Verbally praise and pet your puppy while still holding their collar.
Repeat this exercise several times. Remember not to overstimulate or exhaust your puppy; keep these learning sessions brief.

• The transition to off-leash must be done gradually and only when your dog’s recall is solidified on the leash.

• In a safe, enclosed area, allow your pup to drag the long leash (15 to 30 feet) and allow them to explore the environment. When they are no longer paying attention to you, call them to you and praise them when they respond and start walking toward you. As before, take several steps back to encourage them to follow you. When you have taken hold of their collar, give them quick pets, verbal praise, and then a food reward.

• If your puppy does not respond to your verbal cue, pick up the long line to reel them toward you. Reward and praise as above.

• If your pup responds well, you can shorten the long line they are dragging behind them. Remember, they are only ready to shorten the leash when they are immediately responding to your verbal cue every time.

• After several weeks of training sessions, the pup should reliably come when called, off leash in a safe, enclosed area with random reinforcement. Your puppy must be reliable with distractions in any environment. If you feel they are too distracted or not responding to your verbal cue, immediately return to the longer, handheld line until needed. You do not want to create the habit of allowing the puppy to ignore your verbal cue and being reeled in or needing a leash correction to get their attention.

Crate Training
The puppy should feel like the crate is a comfortable, safe place to relax. The crate should be an aid to keep your home and the puppy safe, teach polite house manners, and confine the pup when you cannot supervise them.

• Feed all meals in the crate until the pup eagerly goes into the crate. The more positive association there is with food in the crate, the faster they will acclimate to and be comfortable in it. This also reinforces that the crate is not the place to potty. Dogs don't like their dinner table and potty place to be the same.

• Should they have an accident in their crate, remove the bedding and toss. Clean thoroughly so there is no smell, using an enzymatic cleaner.

• Do not leave the puppy unsupervised in the crate with items the pup can destroy or ingest.

• Give the pup a non-ingestible dog toy to play with in the crate. We suggest a strong, durable bone like this Wishbone Nylabone.

• If the pup must be left in the crate for more than 15 minutes at a time during the day before they have a foundation with the crate game, give the pup a food-stuffed toy like a FENRIR Dragon Egg. Soak their regular dog food in warm water for at least 10 minutes and then stuff the food in the Dragon Egg. You can freeze the toy with food ahead of time to keep the puppy occupied for extended periods but never confine them past their potty threshold.

• Make the crate fun! Play the crate game described below.

Crate Game
Introducing the crate to your puppy with food creates a positive association. Play this game several times a day when the pup is hungry, but not right before mealtimes so they don't become frustrated or frantic and remember to set the crate up in a quiet room with minimal distractions. All food rewards should be given in the crate during this game, and let the pup leave the crate if they want to.

Lure the pup into the crate with food so they go all the way to the back of the crate. Once the pup is in the back of the crate, drop the food and allow them to eat it. After you have done this rewarding part of the game several times, only reward the pup for being in the back of the crate.

The pup should be facing the back of the crate as they eat the food you dropped. Put another piece of kibble in your hand and extend it into the crate so the pup is met with food when they turn around.

If your pup leaves the crate, lure the pup back into the crate several times with food until they make the connection that food is delivered in the crate. Continue to meet the pup with food when they turn around to walk out.

After luring the pup into the crate 5-10 times, start letting the pup walk into the crate on their own. Once the pup walks in, drop food into the crate from the top. Do not drop the food in until the pup steps into the crate.

Meet the pup with a piece of kibble when they turn around. If the pup hesitates to leave the crate, lure them out with kibble. Then, allow the pup to walk back in and be reinforced with food by walking into the crate.

Quietly close the door as the pup turns around in the crate after the first food reward you dropped in. Feed the pup several times through the door. Then, delay the feeding by 5-6 seconds. Continue increasing the duration of time between feedings through the closed door. After feeding 10-15 pieces of kibble, open the door. Feed the pup several pieces of kibble in the crate with the door open.

When the pup walks back into the crate, close the door and increase the time between feedings by 10-20 seconds. Open the crate and feed the pup at the entrance before they exit.

Allow the pup to walk back into the crate. Close the crate and walk away. Return to the crate after several seconds and feed the puppy. Continue increasing and varying the duration of your time away from the crate to 20 seconds. Walk out of the room and pup's sight for several seconds and increase and vary the time with your absence. Continue this exercise by placing the pup in the crate while your home. Leave the room but return to reinforce the pup's quiet and calm behavior with a food reward.

We hope this detailed guide on the most essential habits to teach a new puppy is helpful to you! Please remember, above all, that teaching your puppy new skills should be a positive experience and help them feel more confident. Scolding your puppy for bad behavior never yields good results. You want to teach them that beneficial things happen when you listen to your human!

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